Back

Gloucester Master Gardeners

 

Jack Eden

Precise Formula for Preserving Cut Flowers

Choose a vase with a narrow neck, then pour 10 ounces of the hottest water from the sink. Because you are using tap water (usually has a pH around 7), the pH must be lowered if the flowers are to survive.

Use a measuring cup to apply materials to the vase or container. Pour 3 ounces of concentrated lemon juice into the vase, followed by one ounce (two tablespoons) of clear Karo syrup. Stir the solution, then move on to your cut flowers. Make fresh cuts at the base of every stem, placing stems in the solution promptly. Rearrange flowers in the vase after all blossoms have been placed in your preservative. Cut flowers need medium to bright indirect light, never exposure to the sun. Keep flowers out of the kitchen where ethylene gas from over-age fruits or a gas range will cause premature wilting of blossoms. Change the solution (hot water, concentrated lemon juice and Karo syrup) every five days.
 


Coming to Grips with Inorganic and Organic
 

Do you know the difference between inorganic and organic products, especially fertilizers? If you’d like to know, you’ve come to the right place. In sidewalk English, let us explain the whys and wherefores, and what inorganic and organic products have to offer.

First, where do these products come from? Inorganic products are “man made” while organic products occur naturally throughout the world. Sand is organic, but so are humus, limestone, cow manure, grass clippings, tree leaves, etc. If you put your mind to it, you could probably name a dozen or more organic products, many of whom you routinely use in the garden. Milorganite is the most recognized organic product used by homeowners nationwide. The common denominator in organic products and materials is that they must contain carbon in one form or another.  If a product does not contain carbon, it is not organic!

As for inorganic, almost everything you find at the nursery and garden shop comes under the umbrella of inorganic because the products are manufactured. They may contain some “organic” components, but since they don’t originate entirely in nature, they are classified as inorganic. Most lawn fertilizers are inorganic, as are most fungicides, insecticides, weed killers, landscape products, etc.

Here, we want to back up a bit and explain the in-the-dirt differences between inorganic and organic products, and why we need to understand the factors impacting our use of these products. We’re going to illustrate these differences in a way everyone will understand: personal checks and cash.

Let’s say you received a check in the mail and now you’re going to a bank to cash it. If you have an account at the bank, they’ll gladly take your check and give you cash in return. While this isn’t a big deal like it was a century ago, the bank is still processing your check.  Keep this “processing” in mind because it’s the cornerstone so you can understand the differences between inorganic and organic. Now, let’s move on…

INORGANIC IS LIKE CASH.  Nobody in business refuses to accept cash. They may not accept your credit card, but they love your cash. All inorganic products behave like cash. You apply an inorganic fertilizer to the lawn and, man-o-man, it’s releasing to grass roots within minutes. If you sprinkle 20-20-20 from Jack’s Classic over your bedding plants, the roots will absorb the energy by the time you get back in the house. Why? Because inorganic behaves like cash. It doesn’t need any “processing” because inorganic is already in the proper form for plants (grass, plants, shrubs, trees) to absorb it. Here, we throw yet another term at you: nitrate.  Everything inorganic that you use gets to plants like lightning because it’s in the nitrate form.  In a way of speaking, inorganic equals nitrate.

ORGANIC IS LIKE A CHECK.  Someone has to process a check, therefore organic products must be processed, too. What processes your organic products? Microorganisms, otherwise known as “bacteria,” do the processing.  They feed on your organic matter, changing it from organic to “nitrate” so plants can use it. On the head of a pin, there are thousands of microorganisms ready to go to work for you in the garden.

Obviously, there are hitches in the way microorganisms work. Because microorganisms live and work in the soil, soil conditions must be right if they are to process organic matter. They only work when soil temperatures remain above 53 degrees. When temperatures drop below 53 degrees, microorganisms stop processing organic matter. How can you tell? Well, grass clippings start piling up on the lawn when soil temperatures fall below 53 degrees. Even though you’re mowing the grass in late fall, the clippings go nowhere. This is when common sense tells you to bag clippings when soil temperatures fall below 53. If you don’t, clippings will mat down on the lawn through winter and early spring. Lawns won’t look nice!

During the heat of late spring and summer, clippings disappear because microorganisms are working feverishly on freshly cut grass blades. Bacteria decay clippings in less than a week, generating humus for the lawn. Everything is in the “nitrate” form so the lawn benefits from bacterial processing.

When you consider other organic products (Milorganite, composted cow manure, etc.), the conversion from organic-to-nitrate usually takes about eight weeks. If you apply Milorganite to the lawn in mid-June, the nitrogen and phosphorus will be released to the lawn by mid-August. The same for composted cow manure used to energize fruiting vegetable plants like cucumbers, eggplant, muskmelons, peppers, tomatoes and squash. If you remember this eight-week timetable for organic fertilizers, you will always time your applications to yield maximum results.